Radon Questions, Answers And ConcernsWelcome to this growing page as I go through my work routine and write this page with questions, answers and concerns from my customers.
Q: What is the overall price range for your systems? A: Our mitigation systems cost from $850 to $1,200. The price is depending on 1) the size or sqf of your home 2) the age - 50 years and older homes often have clay, not gravel, under neath the slab. That requires a stronger fan and is more expensive. 3) finished or unfinished basements- finished basements allow fewer choices and limit the possiblities to use the space for an installation. 4) indoor/ourdoor installation- the last is easier and less expensive. 5) the Radon level- radon levels beyond 20 piCu/l require more than one suction hole or a stronger fan. 6) One or more footer in the basement, dividing the basement into sections. A suction hole is needed for each segment. All these factors determine the price tag. Conversion of a passive system is less expensive. Most jobs can be completed in a day. Our five year warranty is transferable to subsequent home owners. Q: Why do you test for Radon in the basement where nobody lives? Shouldn't you be testing in the living room? A: Testing guidelines require testing in the lowest livable area of the house. A basement may be unfinished but can be easily converted into a living space. Moreover, if there is a high Radon level in the basement it will be in the rest of the house as well. As warm air rises upward with the thermal flow, Radon gas will spread through the whole house. Q: Is that a real health risk, Radon, or just another regulation that is tacked on to our home inspection bill? I know the miners in Pennsylvania had it, but what about us here in Virginia? A: Radon has been detected in many countries around the world like Sweden, Norway and Germany. The Radon properties and effects on lung tissue are better researched than other carcinogens. The real question is: when does an individual develop cancer- out of the many carcinogens that surround us? I call it lifestyle, the dynamic energy of your everyday decisions, your creative process towards your goals in life. Until we really know all of the pieces, I think it's better to be save. It costs $1200 to eliminate that risk, it's worth while to do it.
Q: Does my fire place affect the Radon level? A: Definitely, yes, it can increase the Radon level by creating negative pressure in the lower living areas. The flow of warm air is upwards to the ceiling and through tiny passages into the attic where it finds its way into the open. This upward movement of warm air (thermal flow) allows fresh air to be drawn in to replace it. More air will bring more Radon along with it. Q: What is the stack effect? A: Colder air from outside and lower areas in the house are drawn in to replace warm air that is rising and leaving the house through the attic. This is typical for colder seaons where the temperature difference between outside and inside air is the greatest. Q: We had a Radon test done and it came back 4.8 piCu/l. What would you recommend? Do we need to mitigate? A: How much time do you have? If you have the time to run a long term test you'll receive more data that includes all weather situations and seasonal changes which a short term test does not include. So, if you have 3 months or more I'll recommend to test again using an alpha track detector. Otherwise you will need to mititgate to reduce the Radon level. Q: You are giving 5 years warranty on your system. How long does the fan actually last? A: 90% of the fans that were installed 15 years ago are still running today - according to company statistics. I have not replaced a fan that I installed in the last 4 years; they are pretty reliable. I use exclusively fans from one company; their products and customer service is outstanding. Q: Before we had our house testet for Radon it was locked up and stood empty for 3 months. Does this make any difference? A: No, it is actually ideal. It is better if nobody goes in and out during testing, which is hard to accomplish. The idea is to measure the indoor air without any dilution. Outside air is much less concentrated and will lower any inside concentration that you are trying to measure. Q: Is there any difference between interior and exterior installation? A: The price tag! Interior installations are more labor intensive. For example, you are hiding the pipe in a shelf closet and cut holes in each board that lines up perfectly with the one above and below. Then there holes in the floor (hard wood or carpet) and the ceiling, on each storey, that have to fit precisely.... and the roof with proper flashing. That amounts usually to $150 additional costs. The advantage? The system completely disapears (except for the exhaust vent). The interior installation may add to the re-sale value of the house in the future. Q: We have a situation with high Radon levels in a slab-on-grade-house (there is no basement or crawlspace). Do you have to drill a hole in the slab? Where would you do that? A: A very interesting question! This is a common situation. Very often I access the sub-slab aggregate (the gravel layer beneath the floor) from outside. By drilling through the footer, below the floor level, I can access the gravel layer and install my pipe and fan. All this is done without going into the house. From inside one has to find a closet or utility space where a suction hole and a pipe can fit. Q: Do you not draw more Radon gas from beyond the slab into the house when you use a strong fan? A: Very unlikely, the fan is not drawing radon gas from beyond the house nor can it cause water damage. It is simply not strong enough. To read more question and answers of a general and fundamental nature, click on the EPA link below. Frequent Questions From question, answers and concerns back to Homepage
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